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A 5th grade class from the Sha'ar HaNegev elementary school

Imagine a day, even a week, where  you hear the sirens of an impending missile attack and you have only 15 seconds to get cover.   Imagine on some of those days the sirens sound every hour, putting your teachers and children under unimaginable stress.  Imagine the bus station where your child waits to get the bus for home also acts as a bomb shelter.  Imagine houses along a tree lined street with a new room addition — a bomb shelter.  This is the reality for the Sha’ar HaNegev region, which is close to Gaza.

Sha’ar HaNegev is the partner region of  the Jewish Federation of San Diego County.  We journeyed to the region, which is well known for its educational programming, on the last day of our time in Israel.

The elementary school that we visited is new, built to withstand Kassam rockets that are common to this region.    Children are housed in an integrated network of rocket-resistant buildings, based on the project learning model.  A new high school is also being built.  Our Federation has been an instrumental part of both these efforts.

A bus stop shelter

We had the opportunity to share some time with a 5th grade class of the school.  Friendly, smiling children greeted us with handshakes and high 5′s as we joined them.  They were asked to share what it feels like when the siren alarms.  We were spellbound as the children expressed what it feels to live under the constant stress of potentially being injured or killed.  One boy who was asked why his family moved to the kibbutz as opposed to living in town.  He simply replied, “Because there are less rockets.”

We are fortunate to live in a place where the regular threat of rockets is not a fact of life.  We do not have to wonder if our children will have time to run to a bomb shelter.  We do not have to face the anguish of our child’s education being coupled with this kind of fear.  Muki, our guide, was surprised that we did not ask why live in this place if faced with such a threat?  He may have answered best of all.  For most Israelis it is no longer an option to walk away.  Walking away would mean they — the terrorists — have won.

When asked what interested them, the children shared the same dreams of our children.   It became very clear to all of us that they also deserve the same chance to realize them.

The children of Sha’ar HaNegev are much braver than me.  For a moment I wondered whether during our visit we would be faced with a siren, but it never happened.  What happened was a lasting impression offered by children that life indeed should and must go on.  It’s a resolve that sets Israel apart and is a fundamental reason, in my view, that the country remains strong.  The children of Sha’ar HaNegev taught us that.

Lesley Mills

During our orientation of Yemin Orde, we stood on the same bluff the children share each Shabbat

The unexpected has marked this trip often.  I am continually amazed by the Israeli people.  I don’t know what I expected when I started this journey to Israel, but Rabbi Berk promised I would not return to the United States the same.  I believe he will be right.  I have been met often on the path with new discoveries; the unexpected, if you will, has come in the form of wondrous “surprises” — of beautiful landscapes, warm welcomes from a resiliant people, innovation, a commitment to building a country strong and enduring.  I always sensed these things about Israel, but I never really knew them in my heart the way I do now.

The children planted new flowers on Tu B'Shevat, proving that life does goes on

Take Yemin Orde.  Before this trip, this youth village was not on my radar.  It is now.  Yemin Orde is committed to providing children the highest quality of care and education.  But these are not just any children.  These are over 400 children from over 20 countries, displaced and at risk.   As their web site states: 

Yemin Orde Youth Village has a culture of encouraging children to pursue their talents and goals and to take on positions of leadership. Children are able to study in their native language until they are fluent enough in Hebrew to attend classes with their peers, and extra educational opportunities are available through the Village’s Learning Center Program. The concept of tikkun olam is also interwoven into the daily life of Yemin Orde with children volunteering both in and outside of the Village.

Despite the losses to the community from the fires, everyone celebrated Purim, reminding us of the village's amazing spirit

The Yemin Orde Youth Village is not an orphanage.  It is a village, a family, a way of life that helps children find belonging and purpose.  

In December 2010 Yemin Orde experienced the devastating effects of a fire that whipped through the Carmel Forest.   Susan Weijel, Director of Outreach and Development for Yemin Orde, shared with me that when faced with deciding what she could remove from her office before leaving the danger of the fires, she selected ceramics given her by the children who were part of the program.  Her eyes filled with tears when she explained how there was no time to remove the pictures from the walls filled with years of memories of children who went through the program and who went on to become contributing members of Israel society. 

A building damaged by the fire was leveled in order to ready for rebuilding

Yemin Orde is in the midst of clearing areas hit by the fire so they can rebuild.  Approximately 40% of the rebuilding costs are insured. But in order to meet new building codes, the organization will need to raise much more.  The rebuilding project will take about two years.  Check out this amazing youth village by visiting their web site at www.yeminorde.org

Lesley Mills

Today we left Kfar Blum and headed to Western Galilee. Our first stop was take the cable car at Rosh Hanikra to explore the natural grottos in the cliff.  Situated on the beautiful Mediterranean, the grotto rests along the Lebanon border, whichis marked by buoys on the sea.  The grotto is not just a picturesque wander by the sea; it was also accompanied by a lesson on the Middle East conflict from Muki.  Palestinian, Jewish and Arab children, accompanied by their own security support, ran happily around us, a hopeful occurrence in a land whose more recent history made one question if this was even possible.

Shortly after our visit to the grotto, we went to Acre (Akko), where the ancient Crusaders’ City is located as well as the Jezzar Pasha Mosque, one of the most important mosques to Israel’s Muslim citizens.   We then visited a Druze village in the Carmel Mountains where we enjoyed a home hospitality lunch.  Satiated, we headed into Haifa where we will stay for the evening.  It is the third largest city in Israel, modern and bustling, with amazing views.  We are all quite entranced by this land.  We are also quite tired!

Lynn and Michael Maskin at the Tel Dan Nature Reserve

Heading up the trail at Tel Dan

We got our share of choice scenery today, beginning with a walk through the Tel Dan Nature Reserve, witnessing nature at its best and the ongoing excavations of the city of Dan. Named for the tribe of Dan, which was described in the Book of Judges as the largest of the twelve Israelite tribes, the city was the northern home of ancient Israel and considered a major center for trade and business.  

Dean and Nancy Abelon getting ready for a jeep ride

Linda and Fred Valfer atop Golan Heights

Following our visit to the reserve, we were met up by jeeps to explore the Golan Heights, once a point of great military conflict.  The scenery was spectacular with acres of wild flowers, cows roaming the landscape, and a view that would take your breath away. Still, we are reminded by ruins of military hold-outs and warning signs of land mines that our peace is still young and fragile. 

Our day concluded with a  visit to a local winery(over 25 wineries populate the area) and then the Hula Nature Reserve, which is home to an important conservation endeavor in the Hula Valley.  The Hula Valley was at one time the most important resting place for birds migrating from Europe to Africa and back.  Following the creation of the state of Israel, it was decided to drain the wetlands and convert them to farmland.   Ultimately a wide scale effort was waged to set aside a protected area in an effort to restore a portion of the wetland.  During our visit we were rewarded by a view of migratory birds.

A reminder of dangers still around

A baby calf nestled in the pasture is visual testimony to new life on the Golan Heights

Israel continues to marvel me.  It is by no means stagnant and its vast landscapes offer so much.   From ancient to new, one is never bored.  There is much promise in this land. 

Lesley Mills

We have been through a bombing, rain, and cold, but the Beth Israel group in Israel is terrific! We are having a great time. Shabbat was wonderful and restful and we learned what it’s
like to live in Jewish public space. When you see people on the tour be sure to ask them about the services they attended!

Flamingos hanging out at the Jerusalem Zoo

Today, Sunday, started with an extraordinary trip to the zoo in Jerusalem. Because of the connections between our San Diego Jewish community and the zoo, we were privileged to have as our guide the executive director himself. I must say, I think the group thought I was nuts for taking us to the zoo, but it didn’t take long for all of us to be smitten not only with the director, but the zoo itself. In addition to the beautiful setting, the wonderful animals, and the cutting edge innovations we heard about, we experienced the beauty of the place by seeing groups of Arabic speaking Palestinians, Yiddish speaking Orthodox school children, and Hebrew speaking Israelis sharing in the joy of the place. The zoo is the most popular site to visit in all Israel, but hardly any of the tour groups from America go there. What a mistake. I know it will remain high on my list of places to see every time I’m able to come here. I am so grateful to those who made it possible for us to have such a unique experience.

Tonight we are in Kfar Bloom, only miles from both Lebanon and Syria  but we will sleep peacefully in a beautiful kibbutz hotel and we are safe and secure in this quite remarkable place.

Special Note:  Last Shabbat we were thrilled to have our very own Vicki Raun join us a couple of times while we were in Jerusalem.   Whether it was worshipping at an orthodox service, sharing a Shabbat meal, listening to Saul Singer, co-author of Start-Up Nation, or sharing Havdalah, every moment with Vicki was a special one.   Seeing her made us all realize how very much we miss having Vicki be part of  our regular daily lives.  Here are some words from our treasured friend.

Warm hugs and kisses began my reunion with my many friends on the CBI trip to Israel. I’ve been living in Israel since July and am studying at the Pardes Institute in Jerusalem. It was delightful to join the group for Erev Shabbat and Saturday evening and I loved hearing about the group’s adventures in Israel so far.

It was exciting to hear how much people are enjoying the place I have decided to make my home. I joined everyone for the talk by Saul Singer and especially appreciated his comments on “A Better Place,” the project to make Israel one of the first two countries to have an electric car grid. (The other is Denmark.) Last semester, my Social Justice class visited A Better Place on the Tel Aviv coast and we got to drive the electric cars on the test track.

Saturday night’s Havdalah ceremony took place at my favorite place in Jerusalem, the Montefiore Windmill with a wonderful view of the Old City walls. Since I was the only single woman in the group, Rabbi Berk asked me to hold the Havdalah candle “as high as I wanted my husband to be tall,” so figuring I need someone who can do windows, I held it as high as I could reach! (For those of you don’t know me, this was very funny because I’m not so tall and really not very young!)

Vicki Raun

A picturesque view of the Jerusalem Zoo

Jerusalem Zoo

Today began a new adventure to northern Israel, but not before we took a trip to the zoo!

The zoo?  Yes, the zoo.  Now those of us who live in San Diego think we know all about zoos.  Afterall, we have quite a wonderful one  in San Diego.   But as with most things in life, just when you think you have seen it all, you are proven wrong. 

Rabbi Berk and Jim Malkus feeding birds in the zoo's aviary

Feeding the elephant Michaela, truly a gentle giant

The Jerusalem Zoo is magical.  Situated on 62 acres, the zoo is nestled in a lovely valley surrounded by lush green hills.  The zoo encircles a small lake situated near the main gate. The lake is fed by a series of pools and waterfalls that flow one into the other. Spacious lawns and shady beauty spots are abundant.

A pair of giraffes checking us out

The zoo’s magic comes from safe but close opportunities to engage with the animals.  The zoo is also committed to creating a place accessible to all.  Jewish and Muslim children play nearby one another.  Families picnic on the lawns.  There is a wonderful sense of community all around, truly a trip highlight.

Kinneret

Kinneret Cemetery

We departed Jerusalem and drove north through the Jordan Rift Valley, passing through the West Bank, Palestinian territory.  Once back in the state of Israel, we stopped to dine at a roadside restaurant that served the best falafel sandwiches I ever had.  Many of us bought ice cream prior to boarding the bus for the next leg of our journey

Kinneret, the Hebrew name for the Sea of Galilee, was a beautiful sight to see.  We stopped at the Kinneret Cemetery as Muki shared the dreams of early Zionist pioneers.  He shared the story of one in particular — poet Rachel Bluwstein who came to Israel, then Palestine, in 1909 and soon became a passionate kibbutznik.  Bluwstein died at a young age from tuberculosis, and was buried at Kinneret Cemetery where her grave is often visited.  Her poetry has lived on.  Her love of Kinneret is beautifully shared in her poem, Perhaps, which Muki read to us:

Perhaps these things never happened
Perhaps I never rose at dawn
to go into the garden
To work in it by the sweat of my brow
On the long, long burning days of the harvest
Did I never raise my voice in song?
From the top of the wagon
loaded with sheaves?
Did I never purify myself in the quiet blueness
of my Kinneret?
Of my Kinneret!
Did you truly exist,
or did I only dream?
 

Safed 

One of Safed's beautiful old synagogues

We explored the city of Safed, a center of Jewish mysticism for hundreds of years, and a contemporary artists colony.  We had guided visits of two synagogues, one Sephardic and the other Ashkenazi.  We ended our visits with strolls through the galleries and shops that are part of the city’s charm.

We finally arrived at the Pastoral, a kibbutz hotel, for a good meal and an excellent lecture by second generation kibbutz member Dubi Ben Ari who spoke on Kibbutz idealogy and Israeli reality in the 21st Century. 

We are becoming acquainted with this ancient land in a way none of us ever expected.  It has been such a rich and rewarding experience and we aren’t even done yet!

A found friend on a rooftop in Old Jerusalem

Within a matter of a day, I noted many cats along our journey.  Muki, our guide, touched on the problem enough for me to take immediate interest.   I took some photos of these wild creatures  — some more tame than others –and began to research the issue.  As some of you know, I used to run an animal shelter in Washington state, so the matter of animals is still a passionate one for me.  See a stray and I become a sucker immediately, so my interest should not come as a surprise to anyone.

CHAI (Concern for Helping Animals in Israel) is an Israel based animal welfare organization whose mission is to prevent and relieve animal suffering in Israel and to elevate consciousness about animals through education.  They have a pretty impressive advisory board.  Reading their web site, CHAI Online, I learned that the matter of  feral cats –primarily the offspring of tame cats whose owners failed to spay or neuter them — is a pretty hot topic in Israel.   To put things in perspective, the average life span of a feral cat is 3 to 5 years.  No matter how wild, these are still domestic animals who have no real means to fend for themselves.

A feral cat scaling rocks near the Western Wall

CHAI is working hard to implement compassionate solutions, including managed cat colonies and a spay, neuter and release program.  In addition they are committed to educating the public on the benefits of responsible animal care.  To learn more about CHAI and the wonderful work it does, you can check out their web site:  chai-online.org.

Lesley Mills

A glimpse of Masada

Today we ventured to Masada.  To get there you must go through the West Bank, something not possible in recent years.  Along the road you can still find Bedouin camps, although the role of the nomad in this society is forever changed.  We pass the Palestinian territory of Jericho.  There are date farms as well as agricultural enterprises that provide winter vegetables to Europe.   The vast Dead Sea is also part of our vista.  If that is not enough, we can see Jordan and its magnificent mountains.

Fellow travelers Len and Bev Hecker Bernstein

It is an understatement to say Masada is breathtaking.  I imagined rubble, not remnants of smart engineering, detailed beauty and simple courage.  The pictures say so much and yet so little.  Even the best of photos cannot capture this place and its rugged beauty.  Nor can pictures tell the stories embedded in the stone walls.  Stories of Herod and Romans and finally Jewish rebels who chose a different ending from  surrender rather than succumb to Roman power and ultimately the humiliation of slavery.

A magnificent mosaic uncovered at Masada

Masada is worth the trip and a reminder that in history we have much to learn from those who came before us.

The story also helps move us into the observance of Shabbat, our first in Jerusalem.  We will worship at a nearby shul and share a meal together.  Until later, Shabbat Shalom to all our friends at Beth Israel.  You are missed.

Lesley Mills

March 24, 2011

A park within Yad Vashem

On this rainy morning we toured Yad Vashem.  The deeply moving experience that everyone felt comes from the totality — the building, the exhibits, the gardens and hearing children’s names in a darkened structure.  Our marvelous guide, Muki, heightened our understanding with comments on how the complexity of the Shoah impacts modern Israel.  For me, the knowledge that the first death camp at Chelmo began its operation on my birthday, December 8, 1941, brought the atrocity even closer.

Larry Krause with his wife Sallye

Larry Krause